You can catch up on our previous motorcycle adventures through France, Northern Spain, and Portugal. Here’s how our journey went this time:
After crossing back into Spain, we headed straight to Sevilla. We needed a new tire for the bike, specifically Michelin’s newest Anakee3, because our old one had clocked over 15,000 miles and we didn’t want to risk entering Morocco with a worn-out tire. Also, BF had a limited two-week Moroccan visa, so we wanted to make the most of it from day one.
Once in Sevilla, we found several garages, but none had our tire in stock. They told us they could order it, but it would take a day. By the end of the day, exhausted, we gave in and ordered it. In hindsight, we should have done this right away because Sevilla’s historical center is stunning, and we didn’t spend enough time there.
At night, we indulged in the tapas tradition, hopping from one packed place to another, sampling various snacks with our drinks. This is where BF fell in love with sangria—a delightful mix of red wine, orange juice, fresh fruits, and fizzy water. Definitely on our list to make when we return.
The next day, we spent at the workshop getting the tire fixed. It cost over $200, but considering the convenience, it was worth it. Then we drove south to Tarifa, stopping for seafood paella and ice cream in Cádiz. Cádiz was a maze for us, and it took about an hour to find our parked bike after lunch.
We arrived in Tarifa too late for the ferry, so we stayed overnight, enjoying another round of sangria before heading to Morocco the next day. The ferry ride from Tarifa to Tangiers took about an hour, but including customs, it was closer to two. The ferry was expensive, over $200 for the bike and us. Upon arriving in Tangiers, the customs process was chaotic, with many people offering to “help” for a fee, but we managed on our own and got through.
Our first Moroccan stop was Tétouan, known for its traditional market streets. It was a bit overwhelming for BF, as it was his first visit to Morocco, and the maze of narrow streets filled with various trades was a sensory overload. We then moved on to Chefchaouen, famous for its blue houses. It’s a quaint town nestled in the mountains and quite a sight to behold. Our hotel wasn’t great, which made for a poor night’s sleep, but the town was lovely.
We continued south through the mountains, appreciating the mild weather and rugged landscape. When we finally reached the Sahara Desert, the heat shot back up to 100 degrees. The development in the area surprised me after 10 years. We filled our tank in Rissani but found another station in Merzouga, a town beneath impressive sand dunes.
We explored the dunes by camel and watched a beautiful sunset. Although I wanted to stay longer to stargaze, our guide was worried we’d get lost and refused. The silence in the desert was profound and a highlight of the trip.
Overestimating ourselves, we tried to drive to Marrakesh in one day. The roads were good but narrow, making for slow progress. By the time we were crossing the Atlas Mountains, it was dark and we were exhausted. We finally found a hotel that served us dinner and some Moroccan wine—an unexpected pleasure.
Marrakesh was busy and touristy, making it hard to navigate and park the bike. It didn’t impress BF much, so we quickly moved on to Essaouira, a more relaxed coastal town with a charming old center. We spent three restful days there, enjoying the seafood market and the slower pace.
Following the coastal road to Casablanca, we were stopped by cops with a radar trap targeting tourists. After some negotiation and a few tense moments, we avoided a hefty fine by using some quick thinking. In Casablanca, we visited Rick’s Place, a restaurant replicating the bar from the movie “Casablanca.”
Our journey continued along the coast, taking in the sights of Rabat and a few other towns before heading back to Tétouan. Morocco was different this time—shorter on time but full of unique experiences. Though we felt like typical tourists on our fancy BMW bike, Morocco still holds a special place for me.
That’s it for now! Next, we head back to Andalucia and the Mediterranean coast of Spain.